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Written over the Atlantic - Thursday, October 25, 2012

Back home

As we head home to Canada today, we have mixed emotions.  The past 6 weeks in Europe have been very fulfilling to say the least.  The sights and sounds have now become familiar to us and we will miss them.  The constant cow bells clanging as we drove down the roads and as we tried to sleep - the fast drivers who pass  in very close quarters - the lack of stop signs - the rolling yield signs - the round abouts instead of stop lights - the hills and mountains - the flowers in the window boxes - the little 5-speed diesel Modus - the friends we have made at the farm stays - the walkers and bikers at every turn - the sun and fog at high altitude…. and more. 

We have traveled almost 400 km on our bicycles - at times they carried us up steeper grades than we should have tackled.   The new Renault Modus now has 4461 km that we have added to the odometer for the next guy who buys it as a demo.

We chose the fall season specifically to experience the harvest  and fall colors in Europe.  One thing we did not count on experiencing was the fog and colder weather.  We had 2 great weather weeks in Germany  then 2 rather depressing weeks in Switzerland then 2 great weeks in Austria.  Guess 2 out of 3 is not bad when we think of it.  Shorts and short sleeved shirts had been packed but could very well have been left at home.  Should have packed more sweaters perhaps but we survived. 

The colours of the leaves and hillsides were  spectacular especially on those days when the sun brought them to life with the snow capped mountain backgrounds and the deep blue waters of the mountain lakes.  1938 photos will help us remember each day.  Would love to share some of them with each of you -  ask us though - we do not want to bore you. 
Thanks to my brother Ken (and Martha)  for the airport trips.  A special thanks to Ed Winger for caring for the lawn back home over the last 6 weeks.  Thanks as well to neighbors Frank and Bruce for keeping an eye on each side of  our home. 

We have been blessed with good health, safety as we traveled,  and the friendships made over the past 6 weeks.  Thanks to all of you who kept in contact with us via e-mail and face book and Skype.  

It was a trip that will never be forgotten and we are thankful to have experienced it together with good health.

Gruss Gott und Auf wiedersahen

Dave & Jean 

Munich Accommodations

Very limited internet access at our gasthaus tonight - more from the airport tomorrow.  Hope it goes thru this time.

Homeward Bouind

Jean:

We were not sure what to do today but as the morning passed by and the fog lifted, we decided to take a route that Karen Brown talked about in her GERMANY tour book. 

The Isar River is almost dry at this time of year

It had always sounded interesting to me, so we started out about 10:00.  The fog was still here but it had lifted enough that it was a pretty pleasant site seeing ride.  We paid our $3.00 Euro toll with small change hoping to get rid of it before we head home.

It flows into a reservoir for power generation

The little man at the gate didn’t seem impressed with that small change, counted it twice (I had counted it at least 3 times to be sure I had it right), then when he handed me the ticket he mumbled something in German and gave me a very strange look–a

Marks on the bridge supports show spring levels

pervoked look I would say.  "Oh well, it’s your country’s money!!!"  It did look like he had been up all night.   This toll road is the same one we went to Eng Alm , except that at Vordereiss we did not turn towards Eng but went straight instead.  That took us through the little villages of Bayischzell, Schliersee, Neuhaus, Hausham, Tegernsee, Bad Wiessee, Gmund, etc.

The bridge spans the reservoir

We actually did a loop from Vordereiss around the Tegernsee and over the Achenpass.  It was a pleasant drive and we had not ventured too far from this area, so that was a change.

As we walked across the bridge, the fog was lifting

Back to the apartment around 2:00 to start taking bikes apart and putting them in the hockey bags in preparation for the Munich airport tomorrow.  That process took about 2 hours and it was time to be finished as the sun was going down and then it gets cold!!

The dam at the north end for power generation

Packed up a few things and got organized for the trip to Munich tomorrow.

The final task - packing up the bikes for home

Hope we have a pillow to sleep on tomorrow night near the Munich Airport.  Called tonight to confirm the reservation  at the Best Western Munich and they had no record - funny thing - they sent me a Booking number months ago.  Still waiting after I just re-sent the original e-mail as proof. 

Close to "home" today

After a long walk yesterday around Eibsee,  we decided to stick close to home today and just ride bikes out from here.  No definite destination in mind so mostly pictures of what we saw today as we biked along. Lots of people out walking and biking again today - sometimes wonder if anyone is at work here.  

At one point we locked the bikes and set off to find a water falls indicated on a sign post - said it was 30 minutes away.  After about 10 minutes and a downhill and no river water in sight we decided that the falls must only be present in the spring when the snow and ice are melting at higher elevations.

  Just to mention one interesting note from today.  As we were riding down a lane way looking for a path to the Isar River, we came to a curve and it looked like a dead end.  From a nearby house out comes an elderly lady and it looked like she was going to "set us straight" for trespassing.  She began speaking only in German but after a bit she mellowed and asked us in English were we were staying while here in Krun.  We asked her the way to the river and she proceeded to explain in great detail the history of the river and the hydro electric viaduct that run past her street and that the river is almost dry because the viaduct uses most of the water to feed the turbine.  She would gesture by pointing to her eyes when she wanted us to pay attention to a certain landmark for directions to the river.  Jean asked her about her house and if she was born there.  Yes she was and her parents lived there too as she was growing up.  She explained that all around her house was Wald  (forest) at one time before the other houses and streets were built.  She explained that she taught recorder lessons to kinder and that she could speak some French and was better with Spanish.  Wish I would have asked her if I could take a picture - she was dressed with a heavy winter coat and a man's Swiss style dress hat - rubber boots and a pair of tree pruners in hand - leaning over the picket fence - would have been a picture. 

 Called it a day after a short walk with the cow bells ringing off in the distance somewhere. 

 

 

The rail line from Mittenwald to Garmish

The view across the hills as we rode

Many trails all well marked for bikers and walkers

Had lunch with these folks today on their "verandah"

Sunday Reflections

    Went to church today.  Only 3 of us there,  Jean and I and God.  There was  still room for 1 more in this little chapel on the hill near our "home".

The "road" to the Chapel

Along the road to Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Along the road to Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Our destination today was Eibsee, Germany near Garmisch

What reflections on the clear still lake!!

Difficult to put into words!

We could see the fish swimming along the edge

Never saw such green water without seaweed

Islands in the reflection

The path around Eibsee

Who could paint such a scene but God

Such beauty!

Many people soaking up the sun and scenery

Watching fish from the bridge - wave to Jean.

The chapel on the hill at Krun, Germany

The morning view from our balcony here at the Heiss Farm

What a difference the sun makes

What a difference from summer

Today was reserved to drive over into Austria about 45 min. to the small Alpine farm at Engalm.  We had stumbled upon the farm 2 years ago while just out driving - you know - trying to find the roads with no white lines on them - the best. 

Enough barns to milk over 200 cows - empty

At that time we had not planned it so were not prepared for an extended exploration of the area.  This time we wanted to see the trees in full color as well as walk a few of the trails up into the hills surrounding the alm.

Barns, living quarters, cheese factory & church

There was frost on the car window as we left the farm and the temperature said -1 C so it was chilly but we headed out in the direction we had remembered before.  It was shortly after 8 am but we wanted to be ahead of what we thought would be a traffic jam to get up there given the color of the trees and the cows and the scenery against a backdrop of snow capped mountains. 

Living quarters

On the way up there we had remembered the large meadow of maple trees and were anxious to see the colors.  Not!  what we only saw was bare black trees and branches - no leaves in sight.  The wind must have taken care of the raking too.  Winter had obviously arrived early. 

The "normally" beautiful meadow filled with cows

Neither were there any cows in sight.  In fact after we parked at the base of the alm and started to walk up about a km to the farm sight we could see the barn windows all boarded up.  The sun was just starting to peak over the mountain and it was still dark down on the farm. And cold and windy - we were totally unprepared for what we found  and unprepared as well for the cold weather conditions. 

Colourful leaves on the way and back

Oddly there were many people heading up toward the farm but as we got closer we realized they were not there to see the leaves and the barns and the cows but they were there to walk up into the mountains probably to some other alm.  We did walk up one of the trails a short distance but it was too cold and too windy and we were too unprepared.  The sun would not hit the valley until close to noon - we would never get warm - we headed instead back to the car and several stores that were closeby.  Driving back down, there was a steady stream of cars bikers and walkers heading in the opposite direction - up to where we had just left.  At least 6 parking lots were full of cars already.  What were we missing.  They were all serious hikers unlike ourselves - out for a good day of exercise - not necessarily the view.  We were so unprepared.

Little barn on path to Barmsee

Decided instead to head back home for a bit and regroup.  There is the Barmsee close to our stay so we decided to ride our bikes over there  instead.  By now the sun was warming the world and it was all level going for the most part. 

Barmsee, Near Krun, Germany

The trail headed back from the farm in a large arc until we came upon the lake in about 45 min.  The colors and the views were super as we circled the lake completely.  At the far end of the lake the path narrowed and indicated only walkers but to head further on the bike trail would take us further than we wanted. 

Half way around Barmsee

We opted to walk our bikes on the people only trail.  At first it was fairly level but soon we began to see why it was a walk only path.  It rose sharply away from the lake with several switch backs to arrive at the top of the hill. 

Along the trail near Bramsee

At this point we were wishing for our e-bikes.  Had to stop several times to catch our breath.  Coarse after every up hill is almost always a down hill.  Had to drag the brakes and skid the tires on the loose gravel at times to hold them back. 

Along the trail on the way home

Eventually we came to the small TOWN of Barmsee and shortly thereafter found the path back toward our farm. 

Leaves were falling in the wind

It was still fairly early so we continued across the countryside past the farm to the next village of Wallgau - rested a bit on a bench along the trail before heading back to the farm. 

Lots of colour for coffee break

Many colourful camera spots along the way this afternoon.  Not so many this morning.

Mittenwald - the village between 2 walds

Arrived at out last stay in Krun, Germany yesterday around 4pm.  Originally we had booked a farm stay in Mittenwald, the next town south.  After learning they did not have internet available we cancelled and booked this one instead. 

The Heiss Farm in Krun , Germany (no relation)

We are staying at the Heiss (no relation) family farm.  We have stayed with them before so had the info for applying.  They have 5 apartments that are full most of the year.  It is a huge house as you might imagine with the barn attached to the house so it makes it look even bigger.  Barbara and Josef are hard workers seeing they have the “motel” business as well as approximately 15 cows to care for.  The barn here could hold probable 60 milk cows but I only saw 15 at present.  They are on the back edge of town so their fields are beyond that yet. 
We like this area because there are miles of paved paths to ride in just about any direction.  Also they are close to town for groceries etc.  as well.  A number of tourist attractions are within an hours drive and we plan to take in a few more of these this time.
This morning we headed out about 9 for Mittenwald Zentrum. 

Downtown Mittenwald

Having not spent time in or around Mittenwald  previously we were headed for the TI office to get info on riding trails and things to see/do in the area.  Walked the streets for a couple hours in the old down town area and got oriented.  Many shops and old buildings, obviously the town has been around since the Romans were around. The core is a car free zone so it was easy to walk and look.  Came upon 3 guys who were playing the Alphorns for a celebration of an employee.

The Isar River - crystal clean and cold

Close to lunchtime we headed back to the car and unloaded the bikes and headed for the Isar River paths that run through town on both sides. 

Happened upon an Alpine horn serenade

Further out into the countryside the path wanders sometimes away from the river but always within earshot of the rushing waters flowing over the rocky riverbed of the Isar. 

Some of the little barns

This area is noted for its small log barns - many of them - scattered across the fields.  In former times when all hay was made by hand, the barns were many and close so the hay was carried to the local barns after drying  on teepee like racks then stored until needed by the farmer in winter at which time horses and sleighs were used then to transfer the hay as needed to the main barn. 

The Karwendel Mountains surround us

It has become a major tourist attraction as bus loads of them slowly drive through the countryside viewing the barns. 

Many barns are log with almost all tile roofs

Barns of all sizes and shapes

The locals have discovered that there is money in them there barns even though many of them are now empty.  Some are used to stack firewood against on the wide overhangs but most are now just for show. 


Occasionally as we ride bikes past some you will hear a calf calling or sheep blearting but most are empty.
Two hours on the bikes in the high winds today was enough so we headed back “home” to rest.  After supper we walked to the grocery store at the north end of town for a few things.