Where'd Jeanie go.

Today was a long day - probably tried to cram too much into it but the timing seemed OK so why not. Did not get "home" until 10:30pm so no time to blog today.

Written on Sunday afternoon
We wanted to orient ourselves with the town of Bacharach so started off on foot around 9am. Downtown about 1/2 km away was already buzzing. The busiest store was the backerie (bakery) with a line up of locals for their daily bread. We nozed around until the TI office opened to get some maps and attractions etc. then went across to mail a sign order from back home to Netherlands - sure was a lot cheaper - it went in with the bikes on the plane.
Bacharach at one time was a toll town , one of many along the Rhine and depending on which feudal lord was in charge, there were tolls to be paid. The castle that enforced the tolls is pretty much in tact high above the town - many of them were destroyed in the frequent wars as various dynasties tried to gain control of the lucrative river trade. Climbing up the many steps to the castle, we walked part of the remaining stone wall surrounding the castle town. It was a strenuous climb but very picturesque even though it was an overcast day. It has been dry here so some of the leaves on the trees and grape vines are just starting to change colour. Back at street level we found a neat little bistro, had some soup and a sandwich and some salad and chatted with some locals for things to do.
Turns out there was a vine festival and fireworks 2 villages down the river in St. Goar so we decided to bike the 14 km down there and take in the festivities. It turned out to be a BIG deal by any standards. All along the Rhine River there is a bike path with white lines for walkers and bikers. A beautiful one hour ride past brightly coloured houses with many river boats and barges plying the waterway loaded with everything from coal to scrap metal to containers, all meandering and criss-crossing the river with many cruise boats intermingled stopping at the various villages to exchange passengers.
Once in St. Goar Jean needed to find a WC so when we saw a sign she disappeared into the crowds of people while I guarded the bikes along the river. WELL she didn't come and didn't come back and I was about to wade into the masses with a bike in each hand looking for her. Finally she appeared with a little wine bottle in hand and a smile on her face and obviously relieved. Now the little wine bottle was empty so now I could see what took her so long. She has some "splainin" to do to us all.
Lots of lively German music and lively German folk evidently enjoying the evening. Then it was the wait for the fireworks. At 9:15 pm or so they started first on one side of the river then on the other side of the river from behind a castle. Beautiful views with the castle silhouetted in front. PEOPLE - never saw so many people for fire works but then figured most were there for the wine tasting and celebrations of a good grape harvest. River boats all decked out in lights and loaded with people began arriving down river and by the time they all got "parked" we counted 12 large cruise ships lined up 3 wide across the river and 4 rows down river. What a sight. People came by car, bus (I counted 90 and gave up - by train - the only mode I did not see was airplane and horseback. Hoards of people packed into the town.
After the fireworks or part of them - we left early to get ahead of the mass exit. We had been told by the locals at the bistro that it would be safe to ride at night and the bike path was lit at night - WELL - the only light was when we passed a small village or when the occasional car went by - remember everyone was there - we were the first to head home. It was a harrowing experience to try to see the bike path but would have been much worse without the helment lights we had purchased back home. Will never do that again says Jean.
P.S. They tell me it is a pain to send comments at the end of the blog so feel free to send them to dwhdwheise@gmail.com if you wish.